Tuesday 18 February 2014

Kangaroo Island - Penneshaw


Cape Jervis
Unfortunately, there was a lot of concern as we leave Cape Jervis for Kangaroo Island. Two fishermen have failed to return to the shore and a search and rescue effort is in full swing. Media is well represented, and they formulate their video reports from the high point of the cape adjacent to the lighthouse structure. Ferry passengers are instructed to report any possible sightings of a sunken vessel as we cross the waters to Kangaroo Island.


Loading Matilda
The forty-five minute ferry trip transports us to Penneshaw on Kangaroo Island. We immediately head for the council owned caravan park which we are less than impressed with. Washing machine broken down, grotty barbeque (and obviously not used for a while despite a near-new gas bottle), and very little lawned area, differing remarkably from the green sites in the brochure. Still, take a lot worse than that to spoil our holiday, as we still have the luxury of Matilda (complete with working washing machine). A trip to the local information centre to acquire planning material, a couple of happy hour drinks at the Penneshaw Hotel (‘The Penny’) with its fabulous views from the balcony across the waters to the mainland, then local fish and chips for tea, completes our first day on KI.

With the intention of using Penneshaw as the base for exploring the east end of KI, we drive towards Kingscote, the main town on the island, taking a detour to American River and the Oyster Farm Shop along the way. Surprised to see how expensive some of the seafood is here despite it being local fare. There is a cold breeze blowing and the occasional shower persists, but we still manage to picnic next to the Kingscote jetty before heading off down the road to Clifford’s Honey Farm. Here the produce is created by the Ligurian bee, originally imported from Italy, and the only existing pure strain of this bee in the world. The industry is protected by quarantine of honey products from the mainland. After a honey tasting, we selected their Cup Gum honey and their honey & mustard dressing.

Pennington Bay
Island Beach
Crossing the neck back onto the Dudley Peninsula, we toured south to Pennington Bay. Here is where the blustering southerly was having its most effect, whipping up the waves as they formed and crashed into the south facing beach. Heading to the north-west coast of the peninsula, we could compare the relative serenity of the beaches and camping areas of Island Beach and Browns Beach positively looking like an island paradise location.

Before returning to the caravan park for our second night’s stay, we dropped lines into the waters of Christmas Cove, an artificial boating anchorage at Penneshaw to catch tea – one whiting, one mullet and five tommy ruffs.

Dudley Wines
Next day’s exploration is Dudley Peninsula, the east end of the island. The road deteriorates rapidly and finally becomes unsealed and somewhat corrugated. Dudley wines is situated between the road and the sea, and they have made the best of their cliff-top location with spectacular views across to the mainland. Just the spot for lunch and a wine tasting. Continuing to the end of the road, we see the Cape Willoughby lighthouse.
The spectacular sights continue with views of the rugged coastlines of Red House Bay and Moncrieff Bay, and we take the opportunity to take a walk out to the original lighthouse site on an adjacent bluff. At his point, we get caught in an incoming rain squall and hurry back to shelter of the car. Returning to Penneshaw via Willson River Road we pass the False Cape vineyards of the Lake Breeze winery (Langhorne Creek) and the cellar door of Chapman River wines.



That’s it. Time for a bourbon.

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