Renmark

Before we head off from Morgan, Bet tries some pre-dawn fishing but the only catch was a small yabby which was returned to the Murray. A stop at Barmera to replace our punctured tyre relieves the background worry of travelling without a spare. Once into Riverland, we stock up on grapes, apples and capsicum at a roadside stall, remaining cognisant of the various border and regional fruit and vegetable quarantines.

Pulling in to the Riverland Caravan park,we are assigned a prime site fronting the Murray River, and soon have new neighbours Kaye and Alan.

Morgan

From Ceduna, we join Highway One and head east through Wudinna, Kimba and the rusty hills of Iron Knob to an overnight stay at Port Augusta. Then it’s on through Peterborough and Burra.

Morgan Riverside Caravan Park

Rolling into Morgan we are assigned a powered gravel site in the Morgan Riverside Caravan Park, but after setting up we are lured by the grassy river’s edge unpowered sites, and we quickly relocate. The lawns are immaculately maintained with minute attention to edge detail by the owners and Murray River water abundantly available for watering. Perfect outlook from our van site. The shrimp net is dunked into the river and the subsequent catch is used as bait, but the result is one unknown fish species and one silver perch. Both are returned to the river. (In South Australia silver perch are protected and cannot be kept). Next morning’s catch of more silver perch and a catfish are also returned to the river, as is the black yabby (Cherax Destructor) that found its way into the shrimp net.

Murray River crossing at Morgan

Morgan was proclaimed in 1878 and became one of Australia’s busiest inland port. Parts of the old wharf still remain, and the river crossing is provided for by a twenty-four hour ferry service adjacent to the caravan park. An historic self-guided walk around the town takes us to the original shops, two hotels, post office and museum in the old shipping agents storehouse.

That’s it. Time for a bourbon.

Ceduna

Smoky Bay

We leave the Streaky Bay Foreshore Tourist Park filled with fisherpeople, although many have hitched up their boats and headed out for a day of piscatorial pursuit. It’s only a short 110 km run to Ceduna, but we still punctuate the journey with a cuppa stop at Smoky Bay. A caravan-friendly car park on the shore and adjacent to the caravan park entrance provides a magnificent view of the bay and the jetty. This appears yet another place to consider for an extended stay should we pass this way again, especially with fishing and crabbing mind.

Shelly Beach

Arriving in Ceduna, we make our way to the Shelly Beach Caravan Park, a park that we stayed at last August when heading to our Canning Stock Route adventure. An ideal park to stay in, the beach is immediately behind the  sand dunes at the back of the park. Our site is ideally placed, being shaded, protected from the wind, and close to ensuite style amenities.

It isn’t long before we are on the Ceduna jetty in search of a catch of crabs and fish, but the presence of a large ray swimming around the crab net and lines makes the task difficult. Running short of crab bait, we approach a fellow crabber, who not only provides us with some smelly fish pieces, he gives us his whole bagful. Fellow fishermen can be generous.

Next day is Betty’s birthday, and she rises early on the low turning tide to get a few bites, but the only whiting landed eludes final capture by slipping from her grip while being measured. The pressure is on Ken to provide a respectable feed of crab, so it’s back to the jetty. To our combined joy, we come home with six crabs, two tommy ruffs, and two eating-sized trevally. We missed a squid which we managed to jag under a float, but it cut through the line and disappeared with the lure. Betty’s birthday wishes come true, and its sweet chilli crab for tea.

It’s cup race day in Ceduna, and the last ever running of the Thevenard Cup. The racecourse is literally across the road from the caravan park, and we are the 202^nd and 203^rd paying customers (wrist bands are issued and provide entry into the $1000 raffle – we did not win). John Letts is the roving MC, commentating on the fashions on the field, and is happy to sign our race book. Betty backs the winner of the first race, punting on the third favourite in a four horse race, and scores again in the fourth race of the day (six starters).  The TAB Telstra lines are down, so for the crowd of around five hundred it’s pretty much what’s in front of them. Back at the caravan park, it is another meal of fresh seafood, as we consume the tommy ruffs and trevally. 

Denial Bay at Davenport Creek

A trip out to Denial Bay and Davenport Creek turns into more adventure than anticipated when a sharp rock puts a split in a rear tyre. Without the high-lift jack or trusty jack block (both in the caravan boot), the Pathfinder scissor jack is inadequate to cope with the extra 40mm lift that the Ironman suspension affords, so we call on the RAA to help us out. While waiting , Betty throws a line into the bay, but trying to stand in knee-deep wet seaweed soon takes any enjoyment out of this activity. Inside an hour, a chatty old bloke is on the scene and the tyre change is complete. (Memo: leave block in car).

On the way home, we pick up a dozen fresh oysters, which serve as an entrée before yet another feed of sweet chilli crab (still not tired of these lovely crustacea).

That’s it. Time for a bourbon.

Streaky Bay

We leave Coffin Bay via their local Sunday market, and pick up some fresh vegetables at below local supermarket prices. Elliston is close to half way to Streaky Bay, and we take a break to view the magnificent coastline of Waterloo Bay before sharing a pie and a pastie in the local park. The take-away shop appears to be the only one in town, and is overrun by passing tourists, backpackers, and most likely patrons of the nearby caravan park. Like many of the coastal towns along the Eyre Peninsula, Elliston appears to be ideally located for a restful stay and a spot of fishing. For us, it’s on to Streaky Bay.

Streaky Bay Sunset

In hot and still weather we set up Matilda in the Streaky Bay Foreshore Tourist Park, which surpasses the Coffin Bay park in terms of fisherpersons, tinnies and larger boats. Groups turn up here at the same time every year to renew acquaintances for periods varying from two to six weeks. Others have even longer stays. The sites are obviously wide and deep to accommodate the van, the annex, the boat and the vehicle, and many of the 4WDs are equipped to carry the tinnie on the roof. No chance of a beachside site here, but even though our site is on the fence line, we are still only six rows from the bay coastline. The sites are on hard gravel, so hard that the owners lend us a drill with a 30cm long bit to predrill the ground where our shade cloth guy ropes will be pegged. Sat on the lawns next to the beach until the sun set and the midges took over.

Cape Labatt

Following a lazy day around the caravan park and a dark and stormy night (apologies to Edward Bulwer-Lytton), we explore Sceale Bay, Surfers Bay and Fishermans Paradise, the last being a collection of very newly built houses, old shacks and sheds in a neatly laid out estate with paved roads, as distinct from the unsealed roads providing access to these locations. From a constructed observation platform at Cape Labatt a colony of sealions can be seen on the rocks below where they are known to breed, nurse and generally bask.

Shingleback Lizard

Travelling the unsealed roads requires attention to shingleback lizards that are encountered frequently crossing the roads at their crawling pace. These creatures live alone, but reunite with the same partners during the mating seasons, and we avoid creating widows and widowers with careful driving.

Smooth Pool

To the west of the Streaky Bay township is Westall Way, a loop road (also unsealed) taking us to Smooth Pool, a group of protected rock pools with drive-onto beach, coloured rocks, and views of nearby High Cliff. Even on this relatively calm day the surf continually roars onto to the nearby reefs. Further on is Tractor Beach with its bush camping area ($5 per night per person) where the local district council has cut into the scrub to form individual camping sites suitable for tents, camper trailers and medium sized caravans, only a step from safe swimming in Corvisart Bay.

At the end of the day we partake of the $12 beef schnitzel, chips and gravy meal at the caravan park café.

That’s it. Time for a bourbon.

Coffin Bay

The Coffin Bay caravan park is nearly full (we booked ahead to secure a powered site), buzzing with a full variety of four wheel drives plus van plus tinnie on top. Many of the tenants here have obviously settled in for some time. The sites are not as level as we expect in caravan parks, but with leveling ramps and chocks we set Matilda as level as a billiard table. (Well, almost).

We get the info on oyster buying and head off to Pure Coffin Bay Oysters before closing time, meeting Chris with his shed full of recently harvested oysters. Ordering twelve plus an oyster knife, we are quick to confirm the order is one dozen, not twelve dozen. Chris provides instruction on how to use the knife to open oysters in an OH&S manner, repeating the demonstration so that we each get a free tasting. What doesn’t sell today is returned to the oyster beds to keep these wonderful bivalve molluscs alive. After all, Coffin Bay must be synonymous with oysters.

Off to the jetty for fishing, and the oysters entrée precedes a feed of freshly caught tommy ruffs, weber fried chips, and salad.

With Matilda disconnected, we explore the area around Coffin Bay. Farm Beach (where Gallipoli was filmed) with its ‘tractor park’ the result of pulling together a number of old tractors that were once along the beach, has a camping ground with evident popularity where you can stay for up to four weeks on unpowered sites for $10 per day (although some of the setups appear to have been there much longer). Mount Dutton Bay, with its Woolshed  Museum, has a camping area with unpowered sites for $15 that resembles a gravel car park, but with showers at an extra charge and fire places - bring your own wood - it is only for the enthusiastic camper or fisherman, even though there is plenty of room for the largest van or motorhome.

We cruise down to Port Lincoln (which we briefly by-passed on our way to Coffin Bay) checking out the caravan park on Boston Bay where we stayed in the 80’s when touring with our Jayco Dove and two young children, and follow up with a bit of shopping and lunch in the park.

Back at Coffin Bay, we get together with Brenton and Wendy on the neighbouring site. Brenton has a fridge full of squid, and also has squid rings stored in jars with Italian dressing once he has cooked the squid (in boiling water for only two minutes). Beautiful !!

Another attraction in Coffin Bay is the meat store run for a long time by Ray (wearing his faded St.Kilda football club cap) where there is a wonderful assortment of locally smoked ham, bacon and other meat products. Unfortunately, life has caught up with this gentleman and the business will close before the end of the month.

An extended chat with Brenton and Wendy followed by a late cooked dinner brings another fine day and evening to a close.

That’s it. Time for a bourbon.

Arno Bay

Just relaxing

From Wallaroo, it’s off on one of our longer drives – Arno Bay via Adelaide, Port Pirie and Whyalla. Once we are on the west side of the Spencer Gulf and on the Eyre Peninsula, the landscape is noticeably drier, with evidence of the latest wheat harvest remaining as stubble in the paddocks.

It’s 37° and very still as we pull into the Arno Bay Caravan Park. As luck has it, we snaffle the last available site, and find out that caravan accommodation at Cowell (45km before Arno Bay) is 100% occupied. This prompts us to book ahead for our next stops at Coffin Bay, Streaky Bay and Ceduna. The grey nomads are definitely on the move!

The park is absolute beach front and next to the jetty. Our site is a corner block, a bit of a squeeze for Matilda’s 20’6” body. Another site is available for our second night’s stay, so a quick move is made as soon as it’s vacated.

Tony and Sam

We are here on the evening when Steve (owner), Tony and Sam (helpers) serve up dinner comprising two crumbed whiting fillets, two crumbed prawns, chips and salad for $12. Irresistible! Most of the park occupants take up the offer, and gather in the newly constructed shed, the roof of which was completed just the previous day. The customer oriented Steve is doing a great job around the park to provide the amenities that caravaners and campers appreciate.

Jetty fishing yields six good sized tommy ruffs, no crabs, and too many striped trumpeters (not good for eating) which are tossed back.

That’s it! Time for a bourbon.

Victor Harbour & Wallaroo

The return ferry journey across Backstairs Passage brings us back to the mainland, and we are soon at Victor Harbour to rendezvous with Kay Field and her mum (Beryl). Before meeting them, we set up the van, then take a short journey back to Langhorne Creek and the Bleasedale winery to stock up on their quaffable 2011 red blend. Back at  Victor Harbour, it is drinks with Kay and Beryl, then we all head off to the Beach Shack for dinner.

From Victor Harbour, a slow drive through the eastern suburbs of Adelaide to again escape to the open highway takes us to Dublin for lunch in the local Lions Park and on to Wallaroo on the east coast of the Spencer Gulf. The selection of the North Beach caravan park as opposed to the Office Beach caravan park provides an ideal beachfront outlook, so much so, that we take the opportunity to extend our stay from two to four nights as an absolute beachfront site becomes available. Betty ventures on to the beach and into the shallows at first light and snares a couple of whiting.

Exploring the area, we travel to Moonta Bay and Port Hughes (all part of the Copper Coast), and encounter crabbers and fisherpersons at both jetties. At Port Hughes we both comment that the majority of people fishing are female.

News abounds of blue swimmer crab around the Wallaroo jetty and this demands a visit to the local fishing equipment shop to purchase a crab net. Armed with garfish heads from the fish cleaning shed at the caravan park we join a handful of others working for a catch. We are reliably informed that the jetty becomes overcrowded here at weekends and this quickly depletes the crab stocks, so crabbing on a Monday may not be as productive as later in the week. We soon have two legal size crabs (the small fellas being rightly tossed back) and we are happy to add these to our menu as an entrée to the whiting.

With a beachfront site, this is definitely somewhere we would return to for an extended stay.

That’s it. Time for a bourbon.

Picture Gallery

North Beach Caravan Park

North Beach sunset

Port Hughes jetty

Relaxed                                                         Sweet chilli blue swimmer crabs

Vivonne Bay, Emu Bay & Penneshaw

Vivonne Bay

Only thirty-five minutes drive from Western KI Caravan Park brings us to Vivonne Bay and the mouth of the Harriet River on the mid south coast. Along the way we slowed for a koala leisurely crossing the road, and upon sounding the horn to get this little critter to hurry out of harms way, the response was a hiss, and we are sure that this fluffy marsupial gave us the finger as we passed by.

Vivonne Bay has a self-registration camping area with powered ($25) and unpowered ($15) sites, solar powered hot water showers, camp kitchen with barbeque, wash-up sink and eco toilets. Matilda’s solar powered batteries and on-board water supply allows us to comfortably set up on a unpowered site. Initially the Harriet River gives up undersized bream, so we head off to the local jetty. Nothing at all biting at his spot, but a later attempt in the river provides one legal-sized bream taking chicken as bait.

Stokes Bay

Next day we take a mid-island tour to our next destination, Emu Bay, via Kingscote for supplies, and the recommended-to-us Stokes Bay. The road to Stokes Bay is unsealed, but the very well behaved home-on-wheels behind us is unaffected by the bumpy ride. Although the Stokes Bay outlook is quite attractive, it is a rocky shore that appears to be difficult to fish from, and the camping ground is dry and uninviting. We continue on to Parndana in the centre of the island, stopping there for coffee provided by the very friendly owners of the local IGA and bakery.

 

Emu Bay

Emu Bay camping area provides unpowered sites only, although the self-registration charges list powered and unpowered site prices (same as Vivonne Bay). Toilet facilities are in the park opposite.

Bet goes fishing from the local jetty, and encounters grand-parents and dad with a four year old boy who has just caught his first fish, a tommy ruff. An unknown species of striped fish is caught by Bet, but being an unidentified variety, it is released. In the meantime, Ken prepares roast chicken and roast vegetables in the Weber Baby Q.

We return to the exact same site at the KI Shores caravan park in Penneshaw for an overnight stay to ensure that we won’t be late for check-in at the ferry terminal next morning. Left-over roast chicken from the night before provides a scrumptious filling for lunch sandwiches. Back to Christmas Cove for more fishing, Bet manages to land small whiting, bream, parrot fish, tommy ruff, and zebra fish. The trevally, bream, tommy ruff and zebra fish are keepers, and become the basis for dinner. (With the help of another fisherman and a fish identification book, the zebra fish is the identity of the previous unidentified fish caught at Emu Bay).

That’s it. Time for a bourbon.

Western KI Caravan Park & Wildlife Reserve

 A leisurely two and half hour drive brings us to the Western KI Caravan Park & Wildlife Reserve. What a wonderful outlook. The park is 42 acres of camping ground and wildlife reserve, servicing campers, caravaners and those requiring cabin accommodation.

Extensive grasses dotted with mature trees are home to Cape Barren geese, KI kangaroos, Tammar wallabies, bushy-tail possums, koalas, magpies, New Holland honeyeaters, scarlet robins, fairy wrens, red wattle birds, black cockatoos, rosellas and galahs. The wallabies and magpies will eat directly from our hands, though the practice of feeding the wildlife is discouraged. The rest of the day is for relaxing and just taking it all in.

 

From this western end of KI, we set out to explore the south coast and central area of the island. We check out Hanson Bay and Vivonne Bay as possible later fishing and camping spots. Along the road, an echidna makes a leisurely crossing ignoring the danger of occasional road traffic to get his (or her) snout into the sand on the opposite side to seek for a further feed of ants. Not much further on a lazy black tiger snake basking in the middle of the road gets the feel of our wheels across the back, only to slither into the bush after the event.

Ahead is the highlight of the day – Andermal Marron, Marron Café, and Two Wheeler Creek Wines outlet, all located at a common location in the centre of the island. Marron are farmed here and classified by size ranging from 60g to 700g, and are reasonably price from $35 to $50 per kilogram depending on size. As we could not resist lunching on these delectable crustaceans, we share a dish of oven baked marron with basmati rice, chilli and lime butter, and a dish of chilled marron with Mediterranean salad, all washed down with a glass of Two Wheeler Creek Shiraz. Best meal ever? If not, then very close.

Last day of exploration from this location is spent in the Flinders Chase National Park, at the western most area of the island. At Cape du Couedec, the South Australian Department of Environment, Water and Natural Resources has constructed a network of  boardwalks, stairways and platforms that provide excellent observation areas for viewing the colony New Zealand fur seals dozing on the rocks and diving through the surf.

At the same location, the Admirals Arch archway provides photographic opportunities for capturing the sight provided sea and wind erosion. Just up the road are the Remarkable Rocks, a collection of sea and wind sculptured granite boulders, and our arrival there coincides with clouds moving south and allowing the sun to bathe the landscape in light and shadow. We are thankful that this place is not overcrowded with tourists, and provides the opportunity to take postcard pictures of the attraction.

Back at the caravan park, we dine on our own home cooked curry chicken and rice, accompanied by a local Dudley Pink Bay 2013 Rose.

That’s it.  Time for a bourbon.

Picture Gallery

The Remarkables (Flinders Chase National Park)

Kangaroo Island - Penneshaw

Cape Jervis

Unfortunately, there was a lot of concern as we leave Cape Jervis for Kangaroo Island. Two fishermen have failed to return to the shore and a search and rescue effort is in full swing. Media is well represented, and they formulate their video reports from the high point of the cape adjacent to the lighthouse structure. Ferry passengers are instructed to report any possible sightings of a sunken vessel as we cross the waters to Kangaroo Island.

Loading Matilda

The forty-five minute ferry trip transports us to Penneshaw on Kangaroo Island. We immediately head for the council owned caravan park which we are less than impressed with. Washing machine broken down, grotty barbeque (and obviously not used for a while despite a near-new gas bottle), and very little lawned area, differing remarkably from the green sites in the brochure. Still, take a lot worse than that to spoil our holiday, as we still have the luxury of Matilda (complete with working washing machine). A trip to the local information centre to acquire planning material, a couple of happy hour drinks at the Penneshaw Hotel (‘The Penny’) with its fabulous views from the balcony across the waters to the mainland, then local fish and chips for tea, completes our first day on KI.

With the intention of using Penneshaw as the base for exploring the east end of KI, we drive towards Kingscote, the main town on the island, taking a detour to American River and the Oyster Farm Shop along the way. Surprised to see how expensive some of the seafood is here despite it being local fare. There is a cold breeze blowing and the occasional shower persists, but we still manage to picnic next to the Kingscote jetty before heading off down the road to Clifford’s Honey Farm. Here the produce is created by the Ligurian bee, originally imported from Italy, and the only existing pure strain of this bee in the world. The industry is protected by quarantine of honey products from the mainland. After a honey tasting, we selected their Cup Gum honey and their honey & mustard dressing.

Pennington Bay

Island Beach

Crossing the neck back onto the Dudley Peninsula, we toured south to Pennington Bay. Here is where the blustering southerly was having its most effect, whipping up the waves as they formed and crashed into the south facing beach. Heading to the north-west coast of the peninsula, we could compare the relative serenity of the beaches and camping areas of Island Beach and Browns Beach positively looking like an island paradise location.

Before returning to the caravan park for our second night’s stay, we dropped lines into the waters of Christmas Cove, an artificial boating anchorage at Penneshaw to catch tea – one whiting, one mullet and five tommy ruffs.

Dudley Wines

Next day’s exploration is Dudley Peninsula, the east end of the island. The road deteriorates rapidly and finally becomes unsealed and somewhat corrugated. Dudley wines is situated between the road and the sea, and they have made the best of their cliff-top location with spectacular views across to the mainland. Just the spot for lunch and a wine tasting. Continuing to the end of the road, we see the Cape Willoughby lighthouse.

The spectacular sights continue with views of the rugged coastlines of Red House Bay and Moncrieff Bay, and we take the opportunity to take a walk out to the original lighthouse site on an adjacent bluff. At his point, we get caught in an incoming rain squall and hurry back to shelter of the car. Returning to Penneshaw via Willson River Road we pass the False Cape vineyards of the Lake Breeze winery (Langhorne Creek) and the cellar door of Chapman River wines.

That’s it. Time for a bourbon.

Victor Harbor

The four hour trip to Victor Harbor was punctuated by a ferry trip across the Murray River at Wellington and wine tasting (and buying) at Bleasedale at Langhorne Creek.  The misspelling of Harbor is attributed to the spelling errors of an early South Australian Surveyor General. But, strangely enough the railway station is spelled with a u  OK, this comes from Wikipedia, which means technology is never far away.

The Beachfront Holiday Park is ideally suited to our exploration of this area, being (obviously) right on the coast, and once the weekenders and their children have made their way back home, it’s a peaceful site.

Fifteen minutes walk brings us to the centre of a bustling commercial seaside town, complete with horse-drawn tram and camel rides. We skipped both. A walk in the opposite direction takes us on a pathway around to Encounter Bay where the coast road properties have a clear view across the waters to the horizon.

Fishing again came up with the same result that we’ve experienced before – nothing! Through exceptionally clear waters we can see plenty of fish about the size that you find in a sardine tin, and they are all bait pinchers. The weather remains kind to us, with mostly clear skies and the temperature hanging around the low twenties.

That’s it! Time for a bourbon.

42 Mile Crossing

An hours drive from Kingston is the 42 Mile Crossing camping area in the SA National Park on the Coorong.  Before Richard Fidler is able to finish ABC Conversations for the day, Matilda is unhitched and set up in an area that could be described as a bird sanctuary. The surrounding trees abound with parrots, wagtails, magpies and honeyeaters producing the birdsongs that you hear on recordings as background to classical or chill-out albums.

There are several others campers here – a camping bus, a big RV, a family with their van, and campers in amongst the trees. But there is enough room and you can feel that you are the only ones here.

The true meaning of the Limestone Coast can be seen here as the gravel road to the camp site appears to be the product of the millions of shells in this area, and together with the dampness of the recent showers results the in the car and van being coated with a dusting of white powder

It’s 1.6km 4WD driving over the sand dunes to the beach, and the surf fishing begins – and ends some time later with no produce. We know it’s going to come soon. But as we are rodding (as distinct from fishing) groups of dolphins cavort in the surf, one group of three surfing the waves like their trained captive cousins in the Gold Coast amusement parks.

Back in the camping ground, a big grey kangaroo bounds along the track and into the bush. Somehow this is not surprising given the amount of kangaroo evidence around the campsite (yes, it’s skippy poo everywhere). Nightfall comes with a full moon in  a slightly clouded sky and we are fortunate to be south of the flooding rains that are causing havoc around Adelaide and to the north thereof.

That’s it. Time for a bourbon.